Recently I read "The Wave" by Susan Casey. I liked it, being a surfer helps but this is a good read. Casey easily weaves the story of big wave riders and their search for huge ridable waves into a larger picture of what makes gigantic waves. Interesting science, dudes doing really crazy shit and surviving, a compelling story for sure. I loved the part about this sketchy spot in Alaska that gets pounded by 300 foot waves. I say read it.
Dropping in to this? WOW!
The main big wave rider Casey writes about is Laird Hamilton. Watch the wave he catch's it is INSANE!